And for anybody whose keel may not really feel so even heading into competitors, Griffin recommends leaning into that discomfort like a wave.
“I’d say, simply pay attention to how you are feeling,” he suggested. “And be keen to acknowledge what it’s may be difficult you, and both write it down or discover somebody near you which you could speak to about it. ‘Trigger it looks like half the battle is simply recognizing these ideas or emotions.”
Taking a break to have a tendency to at least one’s psychological well being can be “a wonderful factor,” Griffin added, pointing to some fellow surfers on the tour who’ve carried out so. As a result of, he defined, “you possibly can’t preserve going” for those who’re not absolutely current on that board.
“You may’t be one foot in, one foot out—it will simply tear you aside,” he mentioned. “They’re recognizing that they are not feeling good and taking a step out is huge. And also you see surfers come again from that even stronger.”
—Reporting by Nikaline McCarley
As Griffin prepares to (moist)go well with up for the 2024 Olympics, try what all the U.S. athletes can be carrying for the opening and shutting ceremonies:
